My name is Ava Talbott. I am a wife, mother, grandmother and have been an avid crafter most of my life! I was lucky enough to have had three generations of talented men and women to learn from. My advanced learning was self-taught and I continue to learn every day.

I have several areas of interest in the crafting world but the main ones I have stuck with over the years and still do today are knitting, crochet, spinning, sewing, woodworking, and epoxy tumbler making.

So, what makes me qualified to review bag patterns? I have made countless bag patterns, made and corrected countless mistakes, and I have a pattern library that is bordering on the boundary of hording.  LOL I also was a beadwork pattern designer and author. I have four beadwork books, four beaded jewelry set designs, and hundreds of beadwork classes I wrote instructions and patterns for. My books have been sold in several different countries around the world. I taught classes both locally and around the country.

I understand what it takes to design and create patterns. It was always important to me to write my patterns in a way that was easy to understand and follow. Even the patterns I used in classes were written as if I wasn’t there.  By taking these steps it made the instructions repeatable for my students in the future. My first pattern sets and book were not to my standards and I pushed myself to learn and grow. By the time I wrote my last beadwork pattern book, I rarely got emails asking for clarification nor did I get as many questions in my classes. So, although I have not as of the time of writing this introduction, created a bag pattern for sale my skills do relate to pattern writing. Writing and designing bag patterns is a dream I will one day make a reality and it is also another reason I wanted to review bag patterns. By reviewing patterns, I will learn what is most wanted, needed, and expected in a bag pattern. As I travel on my journey, I hope to help bag makers avoid pitfalls, save time by providing added information and resources I used to complete a pattern and to give bag makers an up-front view of what to expect for each bag pattern I cover. In addition, I hope to get useful feedback from bag makers to pattern designers that will help both parties learn and grow!

In my opinion patterns that are written, photographed, and made simultaneously are the best and easiest to follow. For me, if I make the object, while I am writing, all the steps are included. When you have been doing a craft for a long time, we tend to not think about the little steps we always take because they become second nature. These steps are important, not only for beginners but for intermediate and advanced users as well. They may not be steps that are second nature to someone trying to follow your pattern.

Advice for bag pattern Designers: As a pattern designer when you classify a pattern as beginner, intermediate or advanced, it is important to keep in mind these classifications are subjective and not all people in each classification are going to have the same skill set. I encourage designers to always write your patterns as if you are writing for a beginner. Why? As I pointed out, not all people have the same skill set. Not all people are going to understand all the pocket styles or ways zippers are installed, for example. By writing patterns all inclusive of every step, the pattern becomes polished, easy to follow and has less margin of error for bag makers. Although, in this computer age it is possible to find the missing information, it saves the bag maker frustration, time and effort. As a pattern user, it is frustrating to have to do research to make a pattern because all the steps are not written in the pattern. Some bag makers have limited time, the more time you save them, the more of your patterns they have time to make in the future! The more they make the more you make!

Advice for bag makers: As a pattern user, I encourage you to always read a pattern from beginning to end before you get started with cutting or sewing! Why? Many designers include not only a special notes section that covers such things as tips and tricks, but designers also talk about interfacing, fabric, and any other materials they recommend as well as steps you can take if you choose to use different materials. Some times designers include extra tips and tricks in the body of the instructions that will be useful to make note of.

The order in which hardware needs to be installed to be most successful. I have also found instructions embedded in the body of the pattern, that had I not read the pattern first would have wasted materials. Many times, seam allowances change depending on steps you are one. For example, a basting seam is most often 1/8^th of inch but maybe more. A stitching seam can be 1/4^th, 3/8^th or ½ of an inch are the ones I have seen most often used in bag making. The seam allowance can change depending on which part of the construction you are working on.  When you are constructing the lining, may have a different seam allowance than constructing the main body. By reading the pattern first you can make a mental note of these changes to watch for them as you are constructing the bag.

If you want to change the order of construction on a bag you are making it is important you understand the steps in the order the designer intended them so you don’t skip steps if you make changes.

I would also encourage you to add all the markings that are shown on the pattern before you begin construction unless otherwise noted in the pattern, and to apply interfacing to all your pattern pieces again, unless the pattern tells you differently. Some patterns have you install interfacing on card slots for example, after the pattern pieces are assembled to a certain point. The fewer pieces you have when you start, the easier it is to keep track of them. If you take the time to do preparations in advance, the more fluid your sewing experience will be.

Some patterns include more than one assembly method such as birthing a bag or binding a bag. There may be different flap designs, different types of pockets you can choose to include or skip, different zipper overly styles you can choose from, different styles of handles you can choose from, and the list goes on. It is important for you to know what choices you want to include on your bag so you cut all the pieces needed or have the materials you need. If you are using different hardware than what is recommended, you may need to change the construction slightly to adjust for the changes in hardware.

Designers sometimes include more than one size and there may be a different order of construction, or recommendations needed for one size that are not necessary on the other size.

If there are sections of the bag construction that are new to you, it also gives you the opportunity to go look at a video or website to gain clarification if the instructions are confusing to you.

Lastly and most importantly, you will have a understanding of the order of construction and what to expect. Is it always necessary to follow a specific order? No, but sometimes it is necessary. Having the pattern information under your belt will save you time in the long run. I am sure it is not everyone’s favorite thing to do, lets face it you are excited to make your bag. For me, I would rather take the time to read the pattern than have to go back and rip seams or struggle with construction because of poor planning.

General Tips and Thoughts: One of the things I always told my students when I was teaching a class on one of my beadwork patterns is your finished product is only as strong as your weakest link. The weakest link in beadwork is a knot and the same holds true to bag making. Using a knot is less secure than properly backstitching or using a single row of stitching versus two rows of stitching. In sewing a garment, I would back stitch for at least a half inch. This is not generally what is used in bag making, there are many different recommendations out there but the one I hear most often is a few stitches. By following this recommendation your backstitching is most often hidden in your seam allowance. I do believe this is sufficient in most cases. I will use a longer backstitch length when I am attaching a strap connector or a seam that is not going to be reinforced by another seam or top stitching later in the construction.

Understanding the stress points on a bag will give you the knowledge you need to make a bag that lasts. If you are adding a zipper overlay and you don’t want to backstitch, using a knot looks better and more polished. Is it going to affect the integrity of your bag, not necessarily. Zipper overlays don’t always get a lot of stress put on them, however a zipper getting opened and closed does. Just keep that in mind as you construct your bag. Where is a user grabbing the bag to open or close the zipper you have added the overlay to? Try opening and closing the zipper and see how you hold the bag as you do. The type of knot you use can also make a difference in how secure it is.  A surgeon’s knot is stronger than a square knot. Adding a combination of glue, tape, and/or melting the ends of the thread also makes a difference.

The straps on a bag are always a stress point! They carry the weight of the bag and its contents. Some patterns do not have you interface strap ends. I would recommend you always reinforce strap ends at the points they connect to hardware or the bag the strap connectors at the points they connect to the hardware and connect to the bag itself. It only takes a few minutes to add an extra layer of interfacing to the backside of a handle connector on the backside of a panel or add a short strip of extra interfacing to the last few inches of each end of your strap or handle. It could add weeks, months, years to the life of your bag. If you are using cotton fabric rather than vinyl for a strap or handle this is even more important.

Rivets work great and can also be a weak link. If you choose to only use rivets without stitching, all the stress is on the rivet, so be sure it is secure, if you have added extra interfacing, preferably fusible interfacing that is fused in place. Adding it to the back of your rivet without fusing helps to keep it from pulling through your fabric, however if it is fused in place, it also helps to keep the hole your rivet is installed through from stretching or ripping. The added layers also make your rivets fit tighter, which makes them more secure. They will put less stress on whatever they are installed on if they can’t move.

Zippers get lots of wear and tear! Make sure your zippers are installed so they are sturdy! I would recommend at least two rows of stitching where your zipper attaches to the body of the bag and where a pocket lining is attached to a zipper. Many bag designs already have extra stitching added if you construct the bag in the way it is intended. But not all do, so be mindful.

Basting in bag making is different than basting in other types of sewing like garment making or quilting. Basting is a way to temporarily hold things in place during construction. In many types of sewing, longer stitch lengths are used to make it easier to remove the basting stitches later. In bag making the basting stitches are rarely if ever removed, therefore, I recommend you consider stitching at a normal stitch length to add strength to your bag if you do not intend to remove the stitching. Also, back stitching is not normally used on a basted seam. But again, in bag making it is usually recommended. This also indicates the intention of the basting stitches to remain on the bag. Does basting in bag making take more time, yes, will it add to the strength and integrity of the bag, yes. You are spending your hard-earned money and time to make a bag, why not protect your investment by taking those extra steps to make sure your bag will be around for as long as possible.

By basting each side of your zipper tape to the body of your bag and/or pocket lining, you automatically add more than one layer of stitching to give it strength. Will double sided tape do this as well, yes until the tape gets old and the stickiness wears off or lets loose. Have you ever seen a piece of tape after a few years?

Taking that extra time adds to the quality and longevity of your finished bag. If you are just making the bag for you, you have a little more wiggle room, but if you are constructing your bags for sale or for someone you care about, a bag that lasts will create a higher level of satisfaction for your customers and keep them coming back time after time. If the bag falls apart within a month or two, they are less likely to come back. Just because you haven’t had a customer come back and ask for a bag to be repaired doesn’t mean none of your bags have come apart. Some customers may just write it off as a lesson learned and will take their business elsewhere. You are going to have bags come apart and need fixing because of defective fabric, hardware, thread, etc. But you have the power to control the quality of your construction.

A special note about thread that I learned long ago when I was doing beadwork, we have thread around for years, so make sure you are protecting your thread by keeping it away from extreme temperature changes and sunlight (both direct and indirect) when not in use. Protect your finished products from these elements as well while on display in a shop window or an outside vending event.

Keep in mind your thread can be a weak link as much if not more than a knot. Consider getting in the habit of testing the strength of your thread before each use. You may have only had the thread for a few weeks, but the supplier, warehouse, or manufacturer may have had it for years.

Other thoughts on thread and thread management, when you go to top stitch, know your bobbin capacity.  You don’t want to have to restart or rip out your top stitching because you ran out of bobbin! I have experienced this, and I am sure many of you have as well. Make it a habit to check your bobbin until you learn how far a bobbin will sew and even then, I would recommend checking. The thickness of the materials you use from bag to bag are going to be different, materials used to make the same bag could be different and will affect how far your bobbin will last. If you are using all interfaced cotton layers you will be able to sew farther on the same pattern than you will if you are using all vinyl or a combination of other materials.

I am sure there are thoughts I will add in the future, but this was really intended as an introduction to me and my thoughts on the use of bag making patterns. If there are things you have found important to consider when you begin the process of making a new bag, please share it in the comments section or send me a message/email to request topics you would like me to research and cover!

The experience I have with sewing has added to my sewing skill set over time. Different types of sewing have fundamentals that work across all platforms of sewing and they also each have their own skill set.

To both designers and bag makers alike, a beginning sewist is not the same as a beginning bag maker, I think it is important to make skill level recommendations with this thought in mind. So, when you are thinking about a pattern from the standpoint of an experience level you must take all these things into account. If you have been sewing on a machine for weeks, months, or years, and this is the first bag you are making, your skill set is going to be different than if you are new to using a sewing machine and making a bag.

Can you learn to make bags as the first project you do on a sewing machine? Sure, you just have to be mindful about the first bag or bags you choose to make. One of the most basic things to learn and practice is sewing a straight line and starting good sewing habits. For example, holding your threads when you start stitching, back stitching at the beginning and ending of a seam. This is also an example of a skill that may not be used in all types of sewing. Many quilters do not ever backstitch in their quilts when they are piecing a quilt top together. My recommendation would be to make a bag or a few bags with all straight lines until you are comfortable sewing straight lines. Then you can add curves and other design elements. As far as making bags that are more complex, I don’t believe it matters as much how much experience you have when you decide to make a certain pattern. It is more important that you take your time, focus on one step at a time, and do your research on the new design elements you have not done before. There are plenty of YouTube videos, blogs, and websites out there to help you along the way. Even advanced and professional bag makers learn new design elements. That is one of the things I love about bag making, I am always learning something new. I am not one to make the same bag pattern repeatedly.

There are patterns I have made more than once or twice, but it is the exception rather than the rule. I get bored and then it is no longer fun for me. My mom on the other hand could sit there and make the same projects repeatedly. She found it relaxing. To each their own.

I am a woman in my later fifties, and I began sewing at the age of 10, took sewing in home economics in seventh grade, began making bags with fabric at least 15 years ago. The first bags I constructed with vinyl on an industrial sewing machine were, I believe in 2018, when I made backpacks for each of my eight grandchildren for Christmas. I have sewn garments, accessories, home decorations, quilts and much more.

What I am not. I am not an English major; my grammar is correct to the best of my ability. I try to fix the mistakes I find. I am not an expert at punctuation, and I don’t want to be. LOL I try to correct the things I know are wrong and there are some rules that are more of a preference than a hard and fast rule.

I may not follow all the rules of writing, but mostly I try to make sure what I write is easy to understand. I was taught in college to write at no higher than the level of your audience. When thinking about the public, at least in the United States, the best rule of thumb is an 8^th grade level. Even this is tough to do these days. What I learned in 8h grade is not the same as what my children or grandchildren learned in 8th grade. I do use spell check and all the tools my word program has to offer, but spell check does not always catch everything. It will not always catch places I have used there for their, as an example. Proof reading doesn’t always catch these things either. For me, if I have read things repeatedly, I tend to see what I was trying to say rather than what I have actually written. So, if you find mistakes, please be kind. No one is perfect, in fact I promise you I never will be. It is a goal to strive for but one that will never be reached. LOL

The beginning of the Bag Pattern Reviewer journey is starting on a blog and will be expanded across several social media platforms. There is a learning curve to each of the platforms that will need to be learned and expanded on. I will work hard to learn all the skills needed over time. I welcome your constructive feedback on changes or additions that will help me accomplish these goals. All I ask is that you are respectful and kind.

Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your time, support, and interest! I am so happy you are here to share this journey with me. If you like what you find here, I encourage you to please follow me on all the platforms you use the most. The best way to find me is to go to my links page at: https://linktr.ee/bagpatternreviewer this is the list that will be the most up to date and easiest for you to connect to me without having to search on each platform.

Hugs,

Ava Talbott, your Bag Pattern Reviewer